New Project: Part Two, Kirtle, postponed

I had a wonderful day yesterday.  I was out the door early to meet up with local moms followed by a terrific lunch with a dear friend.

I also recognized that I do not want to rush my latest project.  As such, yesterday I made the decision to postpone my new gown until after Twelfth Night.

I still have a lot to do.  The kirtle bodice and skirt were all cut out and partially assembled, for both the fashion fabric and the lining.  I still need to sew the skirt lining to the skirt; sew the bodice lining to the bodice; and then butt those pieces together and sew.  Hemming, finishing still left, of course.

And the over gown hasn't even been patterned yet.

After all the holiday bustle is over and the dust settles, I'll pull out the sewing machine again and get back to work.  Stay tuned!

New Project: Part Two, Kirtle, in progress

I'm stalled.  Not for lack of trying, though.  I am at a stage in construction where I need to fit part of the garment to me.  It is nearly impossible to do this without help, and help is hard to come by at the moment.

I am running out of time, but I may just be able to do this.  We will see.


In other, related news, I have decided to alter the chemise neckline a touch to lengthen the opening slit down the front.  This change will not alter the overall look.  I have also decided upon fabric for the kirtle and the over gown.

For the kirtle, I am going to finally use a gorgeous green silk satin that has been sitting in my stash for years.  Satin was a commonly used fabric for kirtles between 1485 and 1520, so that part is accurate.  Green, however, wasn't a widely used color during that time.  It was used, just not as much as others.  Black and tawny were more prevalent.

To line it, I have some green linen.  The shades of green are not identical, but it will be fine.  Particularly if I decide to bind my edges since the only places where the lining should be visible would be at the bodice edge.

While velvet was a very popular fabric choice for over gowns of the period, I only have about 7 yards of velvet to work with.  (The pattern speculates a need for about 6 yards for a smaller size than myself.)  It's a gorgeous green fabric, and would be beautiful with the kirtle fabric, however I have decided to use a worsted wool instead.  I have some lovely russet wool, and some luxurious green wool cashmere in abundance compared to the velvet.  So it makes more sense to me to put this dress together the first time with one of those.  Once I am familiar with the pattern, I'll revisit the idea of using the velvet.

I did agonize over the idea to use one of my worsteds, though, since the research did not show the use of worsted for over gowns then.  But I had to err on the side of practicality this time as I would be cutting it very close with the velvet.  One the plus side, it'll make a fantastic war gown, too, being wool.

Left to do:

-Finish chemise (handwork)
-Fit kirtle bodice muslin
-Construct kirtle muslin
-Adjust muslin, if necessary
-Cut, construct kirtle
-Draft over gown pattern
-Fit over gown muslin
-Adjust muslin, if necessary
-Cut, construct over gown
-Draft hood pattern
-Cut, construct hood

Phew!  Yeah, I may not make it in time...

New Project: Part One, cont. Chemise

I am pleased to report that all machine sewing for the chemise is DONE!

Now I am faced with a few decisions:

Neckline--do I leave it high? Square it off? Gather it into a rounded neckline? Trim it later to match the neckline of the kirtle? Oh, I cannot decide! Thankfully, I can always finish it as is and change it later.

Sleeves--how long should I keep them? i usually keep them a touch long, but note that in this slightly-earlier-than-what-I-have-been-playing period, the smock sleeves are just about arms length and no more.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Haikus?

New Project: Part One, Chemise

The evening of the last post, I did manage to locate my white linen, cut the yardage desired, and launder it.  The next day, I pressed it.

And then the fabric just languished while life--and a few holiday parties--happened.


With some happiness, I can report that the fabric is no longer languishing, and has--in fact--been cut!  The edges of the pieces have all been zig-zagged.  And a few pieces have even be sewn together!

While numerous of my friends would chortle and deride such lack of progress, at least one that I know would/will/and does COMPLETELY understand what an ordeal it can be attempting to sew with a toddler in residence.

Declan fell asleep on our way home from this morning's archery practice.  As my spouse wanted to work on straightening up the garage, we simply let the boy nap while Daddy worked within a few feet of the car.  I took the opportunity to get the dining room transformed into my sewing studio.  I was also able to measure and cut out all the pieces of the chemise before Declan rose.

Once awake, the baby played with Daddy in the garage for a time.  I used the chance to stay-stitch and edge stitch all of the linen pieces.  But soon it was my turn to play parent.

Husband and I traded off similarly for most of the evening, and as of now--I can say that progress has been made!


A few notes about the chemise thus far.  I debated whether to use french seams or flat-felled seams.  I ultimately chose french seams, mainly as I was running dangerously low on white thread.  However, I didn't get too far, so could switch over after a trip to Jo-Ann tomorrow for thread.

Typically, I do neither, instead simply serging or zig-zagging the edges to prevent fraying and pressing the seam open. However, I do want to get back into the habit of creating clothing--not just "garb" or "costumes," and nicely finished seams, particular on items worn close to the skin, feel much nicer.

How to you finish your chemises/underclothes?  Do you have a preference?

New project at last!

After taking some time away from the sewing machine to relocate (too long, if you ask me), tonight I finally decided to dust off the brain meats and decide on a new project!

Holbein portrait of Jane Small (c1540)

At this last Great Western War, I took a class on kirtles and underclothes taught by the very knowledgable Lady Joan Silvertoppe.  That, plus the newly released book from the good folks at The Tudor Tailor, The Queen's Servents, have given me much inspiration.  As my persona is from the era, I've been eyeballing images of Englishwomen from around 1520 to 1540.  For YEARS I have wanted to create a version of the dress worn by Jane Pemberton Small, but I've let the blackwork intimidate me.     So to warm myself up for the task, I have decided to create an earlier silhouette.  The first step is deciding upon a smock/chemise!

A Young Englishwoman (c1520s)

The Queen's Servants lists a few neckline options; from squared to rounded, gathered to smooth.  As they're producing workable patterns to cover from the late 1400s up to about the 1520s, I decided to look to some portraiture (again) for inspiration.  I found two that I like: A Young Englishwoman by Hans Holbein, and Catherine of Aragon miniature by Lucas Hornebolte.

At the neck is seen either a partlet or the top of her smock.  It features a close round neck with a slit a button (or other) closure.  As I am the sort to need to slather sunscreen all over, the idea of covering my decollete is rather appealing!

Catherine of Aragon with a monkey (1525-6)

The miniature of Queen Catherine features a similar shape around the neck, only this time with some simple blackwork.  Though hers is most likely a sheer partlet and not her chemise, I like the style of embroidery and may try something like it on my smock.

Now that I have an idea in mind, it's time to get to work!  With the help of my husband, I've located the box with my linen stash and brought into the house.  Tomorrow I hope to bleach it, wash it, and at least prep it for cutting!  Wish me luck!