Friday, December 21, 2012

New Project: Part Two, Kirtle, in progress

I'm stalled.  Not for lack of trying, though.  I am at a stage in construction where I need to fit part of the garment to me.  It is nearly impossible to do this without help, and help is hard to come by at the moment.

I am running out of time, but I may just be able to do this.  We will see.


In other, related news, I have decided to alter the chemise neckline a touch to lengthen the opening slit down the front.  This change will not alter the overall look.  I have also decided upon fabric for the kirtle and the over gown.

For the kirtle, I am going to finally use a gorgeous green silk satin that has been sitting in my stash for years.  Satin was a commonly used fabric for kirtles between 1485 and 1520, so that part is accurate.  Green, however, wasn't a widely used color during that time.  It was used, just not as much as others.  Black and tawny were more prevalent.

To line it, I have some green linen.  The shades of green are not identical, but it will be fine.  Particularly if I decide to bind my edges since the only places where the lining should be visible would be at the bodice edge.

While velvet was a very popular fabric choice for over gowns of the period, I only have about 7 yards of velvet to work with.  (The pattern speculates a need for about 6 yards for a smaller size than myself.)  It's a gorgeous green fabric, and would be beautiful with the kirtle fabric, however I have decided to use a worsted wool instead.  I have some lovely russet wool, and some luxurious green wool cashmere in abundance compared to the velvet.  So it makes more sense to me to put this dress together the first time with one of those.  Once I am familiar with the pattern, I'll revisit the idea of using the velvet.

I did agonize over the idea to use one of my worsteds, though, since the research did not show the use of worsted for over gowns then.  But I had to err on the side of practicality this time as I would be cutting it very close with the velvet.  One the plus side, it'll make a fantastic war gown, too, being wool.

Left to do:

-Finish chemise (handwork)
-Fit kirtle bodice muslin
-Construct kirtle muslin
-Adjust muslin, if necessary
-Cut, construct kirtle
-Draft over gown pattern
-Fit over gown muslin
-Adjust muslin, if necessary
-Cut, construct over gown
-Draft hood pattern
-Cut, construct hood

Phew!  Yeah, I may not make it in time...

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