After successfully completing a new ensemble, I find myself inspired to do more. For my next big project, I'm contemplating making a French-style round (untrained) gown circa 1530. I'd like to pair it with a gable hood. More accurately, a well-constructed gable hood, with all the pertinent layers, not just an ill-fitting one-piece affair.
While such a gown has certain telltale features such as turned back sleeves, and a deep square neckline, I do have a few options to figure out. Foresleeves, for example. Do I opt for a simple pleated foresleeve a la Lady Guildford? Or do I chose a brocade like in the famous portrait of Queen Jane Seymore? (In other versions of Queen Jane's portrait, she, too, wears the pleated sleeve.)
Regarding fabrics, I am leaning heavily towards using a damask to decorate the kirtle and a wool (instead of velvet) for the gown. I could line the turn-back sleeves in velvet then. (There is no way I'd want to line the sleeves in fur; too heavy, too hot for my climate.)
Perhaps the biggest potential problem with this gown, though, will be fit. I have seen many such gowns that are not properly fitted through the back and shoulders resulting in the sleeve cap falling off towards the arm. My knowledge of general garment sewing should help me here. Thus far, I've been able to sew similar dresses with no major fitting issues.
For the hood, it is pretty straight forward. The most obvious differences seem to be the length of the linen front piece near the jawline. In earlier portraits, the linen is longer. The lappets, the fabric usually golden in color that is outer most on the sides also varies in length, but as it is usually pinned up, it does not change the overall look too much.
Most period images featuring a gable hood show the front only, but thankfully Holbein did a sketch that shows the back.
I have about six months before our kingdom's next big court event, so I have some time to fret about the details. In the meantime, I'm also considering a much smaller project for the next SCA event that I'll be attending.
My local barony's anniversary is this month and the theme is Italian. I am trying to figure out if I could use one of my existing kirtles, but add some Italian-style sleeves. I think that would add an appropriately Italian-looking silhouette to something I already own. Thankfully, I have some very knowledgable friends who specialize in Italian Renaissance clothing. I'll be asking them for advice!
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| Portrait of Lady Guildford by Holbein (c1527) |
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| Jane Seymore, Queen of England (c1536) |
Perhaps the biggest potential problem with this gown, though, will be fit. I have seen many such gowns that are not properly fitted through the back and shoulders resulting in the sleeve cap falling off towards the arm. My knowledge of general garment sewing should help me here. Thus far, I've been able to sew similar dresses with no major fitting issues.
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| Test-garment bodice, note the shoulders |
Most period images featuring a gable hood show the front only, but thankfully Holbein did a sketch that shows the back.
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| Holbein sketch with back of gable hood |
I have about six months before our kingdom's next big court event, so I have some time to fret about the details. In the meantime, I'm also considering a much smaller project for the next SCA event that I'll be attending.
My local barony's anniversary is this month and the theme is Italian. I am trying to figure out if I could use one of my existing kirtles, but add some Italian-style sleeves. I think that would add an appropriately Italian-looking silhouette to something I already own. Thankfully, I have some very knowledgable friends who specialize in Italian Renaissance clothing. I'll be asking them for advice!
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