Thoughts on the Next Big Project!

After successfully completing a new ensemble, I find myself inspired to do more.  For my next big project, I'm contemplating making a French-style round (untrained) gown circa 1530.  I'd like to pair it with a gable hood.  More accurately, a well-constructed gable hood, with all the pertinent layers, not just an ill-fitting one-piece affair.

Portrait of Lady Guildford
by Holbein (c1527)

While such a gown has certain telltale features such as turned back sleeves, and a deep square neckline, I do have a few options to figure out.  Foresleeves, for example.  Do I opt for a simple pleated foresleeve a la Lady Guildford?  Or do I chose a brocade like in the famous portrait of Queen Jane Seymore?  (In other versions of Queen Jane's portrait, she, too, wears the pleated sleeve.)

Jane Seymore,
Queen of England (c1536)

Regarding fabrics, I am leaning heavily towards using a damask to decorate the kirtle and a wool (instead of velvet) for the gown.  I could line the turn-back sleeves in velvet then.  (There is no way I'd want to line the sleeves in fur; too heavy, too hot for my climate.)

Perhaps the biggest potential problem with this gown, though, will be fit.  I have seen many such gowns that are not properly fitted through the back and shoulders resulting in the sleeve cap falling off towards the arm.  My knowledge of general garment sewing should help me here.  Thus far, I've been able to sew similar dresses with no major fitting issues.

Test-garment bodice,
note the shoulders

For the hood, it is pretty straight forward.  The most obvious differences seem to be the length of the linen front piece near the jawline.  In earlier portraits, the linen is longer.  The lappets, the fabric usually golden in color that is outer most on the sides also varies in length, but as it is usually pinned up, it does not change the overall look too much.

Most period images featuring a gable hood show the front only, but thankfully Holbein did a sketch that shows the back.

Holbein sketch with back of gable hood

I have about six months before our kingdom's next big court event, so I have some time to fret about the details.  In the meantime, I'm also considering a much smaller project for the next SCA event that I'll be attending.

My local barony's anniversary is this month and the theme is Italian.  I am trying to figure out if I could use one of my existing kirtles, but add some Italian-style sleeves.  I think that would add an appropriately Italian-looking silhouette to something I already own.  Thankfully, I have some very knowledgable friends who specialize in Italian Renaissance clothing.  I'll be asking them for advice!

New project at last!

After taking some time away from the sewing machine to relocate (too long, if you ask me), tonight I finally decided to dust off the brain meats and decide on a new project!

Holbein portrait of Jane Small (c1540)

At this last Great Western War, I took a class on kirtles and underclothes taught by the very knowledgable Lady Joan Silvertoppe.  That, plus the newly released book from the good folks at The Tudor Tailor, The Queen's Servents, have given me much inspiration.  As my persona is from the era, I've been eyeballing images of Englishwomen from around 1520 to 1540.  For YEARS I have wanted to create a version of the dress worn by Jane Pemberton Small, but I've let the blackwork intimidate me.     So to warm myself up for the task, I have decided to create an earlier silhouette.  The first step is deciding upon a smock/chemise!

A Young Englishwoman (c1520s)

The Queen's Servants lists a few neckline options; from squared to rounded, gathered to smooth.  As they're producing workable patterns to cover from the late 1400s up to about the 1520s, I decided to look to some portraiture (again) for inspiration.  I found two that I like: A Young Englishwoman by Hans Holbein, and Catherine of Aragon miniature by Lucas Hornebolte.

At the neck is seen either a partlet or the top of her smock.  It features a close round neck with a slit a button (or other) closure.  As I am the sort to need to slather sunscreen all over, the idea of covering my decollete is rather appealing!

Catherine of Aragon with a monkey (1525-6)

The miniature of Queen Catherine features a similar shape around the neck, only this time with some simple blackwork.  Though hers is most likely a sheer partlet and not her chemise, I like the style of embroidery and may try something like it on my smock.

Now that I have an idea in mind, it's time to get to work!  With the help of my husband, I've located the box with my linen stash and brought into the house.  Tomorrow I hope to bleach it, wash it, and at least prep it for cutting!  Wish me luck!