Thoughts on the Next Big Project!

After successfully completing a new ensemble, I find myself inspired to do more.  For my next big project, I'm contemplating making a French-style round (untrained) gown circa 1530.  I'd like to pair it with a gable hood.  More accurately, a well-constructed gable hood, with all the pertinent layers, not just an ill-fitting one-piece affair.

Portrait of Lady Guildford
by Holbein (c1527)

While such a gown has certain telltale features such as turned back sleeves, and a deep square neckline, I do have a few options to figure out.  Foresleeves, for example.  Do I opt for a simple pleated foresleeve a la Lady Guildford?  Or do I chose a brocade like in the famous portrait of Queen Jane Seymore?  (In other versions of Queen Jane's portrait, she, too, wears the pleated sleeve.)

Jane Seymore,
Queen of England (c1536)

Regarding fabrics, I am leaning heavily towards using a damask to decorate the kirtle and a wool (instead of velvet) for the gown.  I could line the turn-back sleeves in velvet then.  (There is no way I'd want to line the sleeves in fur; too heavy, too hot for my climate.)

Perhaps the biggest potential problem with this gown, though, will be fit.  I have seen many such gowns that are not properly fitted through the back and shoulders resulting in the sleeve cap falling off towards the arm.  My knowledge of general garment sewing should help me here.  Thus far, I've been able to sew similar dresses with no major fitting issues.

Test-garment bodice,
note the shoulders

For the hood, it is pretty straight forward.  The most obvious differences seem to be the length of the linen front piece near the jawline.  In earlier portraits, the linen is longer.  The lappets, the fabric usually golden in color that is outer most on the sides also varies in length, but as it is usually pinned up, it does not change the overall look too much.

Most period images featuring a gable hood show the front only, but thankfully Holbein did a sketch that shows the back.

Holbein sketch with back of gable hood

I have about six months before our kingdom's next big court event, so I have some time to fret about the details.  In the meantime, I'm also considering a much smaller project for the next SCA event that I'll be attending.

My local barony's anniversary is this month and the theme is Italian.  I am trying to figure out if I could use one of my existing kirtles, but add some Italian-style sleeves.  I think that would add an appropriately Italian-looking silhouette to something I already own.  Thankfully, I have some very knowledgable friends who specialize in Italian Renaissance clothing.  I'll be asking them for advice!

New Project: Part Two, Kirtle, postponed

I had a wonderful day yesterday.  I was out the door early to meet up with local moms followed by a terrific lunch with a dear friend.

I also recognized that I do not want to rush my latest project.  As such, yesterday I made the decision to postpone my new gown until after Twelfth Night.

I still have a lot to do.  The kirtle bodice and skirt were all cut out and partially assembled, for both the fashion fabric and the lining.  I still need to sew the skirt lining to the skirt; sew the bodice lining to the bodice; and then butt those pieces together and sew.  Hemming, finishing still left, of course.

And the over gown hasn't even been patterned yet.

After all the holiday bustle is over and the dust settles, I'll pull out the sewing machine again and get back to work.  Stay tuned!

New Project: Part Two, Kirtle, in progress

I'm stalled.  Not for lack of trying, though.  I am at a stage in construction where I need to fit part of the garment to me.  It is nearly impossible to do this without help, and help is hard to come by at the moment.

I am running out of time, but I may just be able to do this.  We will see.


In other, related news, I have decided to alter the chemise neckline a touch to lengthen the opening slit down the front.  This change will not alter the overall look.  I have also decided upon fabric for the kirtle and the over gown.

For the kirtle, I am going to finally use a gorgeous green silk satin that has been sitting in my stash for years.  Satin was a commonly used fabric for kirtles between 1485 and 1520, so that part is accurate.  Green, however, wasn't a widely used color during that time.  It was used, just not as much as others.  Black and tawny were more prevalent.

To line it, I have some green linen.  The shades of green are not identical, but it will be fine.  Particularly if I decide to bind my edges since the only places where the lining should be visible would be at the bodice edge.

While velvet was a very popular fabric choice for over gowns of the period, I only have about 7 yards of velvet to work with.  (The pattern speculates a need for about 6 yards for a smaller size than myself.)  It's a gorgeous green fabric, and would be beautiful with the kirtle fabric, however I have decided to use a worsted wool instead.  I have some lovely russet wool, and some luxurious green wool cashmere in abundance compared to the velvet.  So it makes more sense to me to put this dress together the first time with one of those.  Once I am familiar with the pattern, I'll revisit the idea of using the velvet.

I did agonize over the idea to use one of my worsteds, though, since the research did not show the use of worsted for over gowns then.  But I had to err on the side of practicality this time as I would be cutting it very close with the velvet.  One the plus side, it'll make a fantastic war gown, too, being wool.

Left to do:

-Finish chemise (handwork)
-Fit kirtle bodice muslin
-Construct kirtle muslin
-Adjust muslin, if necessary
-Cut, construct kirtle
-Draft over gown pattern
-Fit over gown muslin
-Adjust muslin, if necessary
-Cut, construct over gown
-Draft hood pattern
-Cut, construct hood

Phew!  Yeah, I may not make it in time...

New project at last!

After taking some time away from the sewing machine to relocate (too long, if you ask me), tonight I finally decided to dust off the brain meats and decide on a new project!

Holbein portrait of Jane Small (c1540)

At this last Great Western War, I took a class on kirtles and underclothes taught by the very knowledgable Lady Joan Silvertoppe.  That, plus the newly released book from the good folks at The Tudor Tailor, The Queen's Servents, have given me much inspiration.  As my persona is from the era, I've been eyeballing images of Englishwomen from around 1520 to 1540.  For YEARS I have wanted to create a version of the dress worn by Jane Pemberton Small, but I've let the blackwork intimidate me.     So to warm myself up for the task, I have decided to create an earlier silhouette.  The first step is deciding upon a smock/chemise!

A Young Englishwoman (c1520s)

The Queen's Servants lists a few neckline options; from squared to rounded, gathered to smooth.  As they're producing workable patterns to cover from the late 1400s up to about the 1520s, I decided to look to some portraiture (again) for inspiration.  I found two that I like: A Young Englishwoman by Hans Holbein, and Catherine of Aragon miniature by Lucas Hornebolte.

At the neck is seen either a partlet or the top of her smock.  It features a close round neck with a slit a button (or other) closure.  As I am the sort to need to slather sunscreen all over, the idea of covering my decollete is rather appealing!

Catherine of Aragon with a monkey (1525-6)

The miniature of Queen Catherine features a similar shape around the neck, only this time with some simple blackwork.  Though hers is most likely a sheer partlet and not her chemise, I like the style of embroidery and may try something like it on my smock.

Now that I have an idea in mind, it's time to get to work!  With the help of my husband, I've located the box with my linen stash and brought into the house.  Tomorrow I hope to bleach it, wash it, and at least prep it for cutting!  Wish me luck!

an introduction

As much as I loathe the idea of having a dozen or so different blogs, I decided to finally create one to focus on my older, historical pursuits so that my other blog, The Moderne Hausfrau, can focus on the day-to-day and deco-period.  I felt that it was getting a touch "muddied" with the rare, though occasional, SCA-related post.

While the title of this blog currently is "A Tudor Lady," I should note that this--like my SCA persona--is a work in progress.  Currently, I am very interested in creating and playing a dynamic Tudor-era persona.  But it is true that when I started playing, I had a more medieval idea in my head.  I even entertained the notion of an early period persona, too.  In short--this blog my ebb and flow as my persona ebbs and flows.

In my first Tudor ensemble

The other day, just prior to our large, local war, I decided to update my page on the Caidan-wiki.*  (Note to non-SCA folk, I'll provide "footnotes" when applicable, but if I miss one--do comment with your question.)  Currently, my page is little more than a template.  Plus, it even has the older spelling of my name.**

In trying to decide what to write about my persona, I decided that perhaps a blog like this would be ideal to allow me to "brainstorm" about certain ideas and to showcase my journey in learning more about what the life of a Tudor-era lady would be.  I already have good ideas and information about questions like: what would she wear? what would she eat?  But I do, ultimately, want to figure out more.

Additionally, I am awful with dates regarding my own, mundane, life.  Even just listing dates, offices, and awards on the wiki page was daunting as I cannot easily recall exactly when any of those things happened.  

This blog will not only chronicle my exploration and research, but also my adventures in costuming, cooking, other arts & sciences, and even event recaps.  I do not claim to be an expert in any of the subjects that I'll be posting about, please DO keep that in mind.  I suspect that, eventually, this blog will contain solid evidence of mistakes in my work.  That said, I hope that if an expert ever does decide to give this little blog a read, that they will offer constructive criticism, and will help to point out my errors while celebrating my successes.

*: Caid is the name of our local SCA Kingdom.  The kingdom was its own wiki, complete with information on many individuals who play in kingdom.
**: In the SCA, one may create a name for their personae.  Certain rules do apply.  The original name that I submitted was judged to have too old of a spelling for the time frame that I want to play, so the spelling was updated.